Touching Tibet at Bodnath

On the eastern side of the Kathmandu Valley, in the midst of the chaotic streets and overcrowded markets, sits the stunning stupa Bodnath. Locals refer to it as Boudha (bow-dah), and it's about as close as you can get to Tibet without actually going there. The large, circular stupa is an important stop for locals, pilgrims, and tourists who come here to shop, eat, take photos, and, of course, pray. But it's hard to take your eyes of the towering eyes of Buddha...

Carrying a butter lamp, the pilgrims circumnavigate the stupa in a clockwise direction, spinning prayer wheels as they go. But sometimes they stop to chat with a foreigner. Especially a foreigner who is carrying a beautiful little girl on his shoulders. And can speak Nepali. 

I tried not to get distracted by the many, many, many shops with cool and crazy things to buy.

But when I stopped for a moment, and forced myself to just *look* at what was right in front of me, a quiet universe opened before my eyes. And I remembered, yet again, the singular joy that comes from traveling in a distant land, in a culture far different from my own, and I offered my own prayer of gratitude for this priceless treasure.

Are we not all Pilgrims, each carrying symbols of sacredness on our own journey towards enlightenment? Are we not all Travelers, treading towards the horizon in the hopes of discovering the beauty that lies within?

Swayambhunath; aka The Monkey Temple

Swayambhunath is one of the top "must-see" sights in Kathmandu, and it's sort of a right of passage for every foreign tourist. I remember coming here in 1994 (thanks to the Dirk and Claudia Richards Family!), mostly because of all the monkeys. There are hundreds of them roaming around. Nobody in Nepal calls it "The Monkey Temple", but all the foreigners do, so it's now more or less become known by this nickname. But aside from the monkeys, Swayambhunath really is an interesting place to spend the day. Perched on a hilltop overlooking the Kathmandu Valley, it's religious significance dates back more than 1500 years. And, in it's own unique way, it completely embodies the wonderful blend of Buddhism and Hinduism that exists in Nepal.

The main stupa towers above the complex, and is an iconic image of Kathmandu:

There are hundreds of prayer wheels, which pilgrims and tourists alike spin as they walk clockwise around the main stupa. With each rotation of the wheel, a prayer is offered up.

The prayer wheels are written in both the Tibetan and Sanskrit languages. Another example of how the Buddhist and Hindu traditions mesh together.

Prayer flags are also a significant feature.

Many types of pujas, or rituals, are performed to show devotion and worship.

A Tibetan Monk uses an astrological guide to tell fortunes.

The views really are amazing...

Let's not forget about the monkeys...even at this amazing historical place, they kind of steal the show.

Although, my own kids attracted almost as much attention.

Not sure what it is about Sunday nights, but I *love* making some good old-fashioned Peanut Butter cookies. The last time I wrote about this phenomena, I received accolades from across the globe. I was even dubbed "Mr. Fields." No kidding. And this, of course, was much to my wife's chagrin, who complained that she has been making cookies for YEARS, and no one has ever bothered to comment. I see her point. But don't these cookies look gorgeous???

Yes, they do...